It was time to add some insulation to the ceiling of the van, now that with the Murphy bed installation, access to the ceiling is closing up.
I already made the decision to use primarily Poly-Iso and Denim insulation and started to fill the ceiling cross-members with Denim. The cross-members allow for approximately 1-1/2 inch insulation, when you follow the curvature of the roof. Continue reading RV Ceiling Insulation→
In planning the upcoming conversion, one of the first issues I have to look at is insulation. While insulating an RV tends to be against heat loss and cold, more and more conversions nowadays incorporate some sort of soundproofing.
Very popular materials are Dynamat, Fatmat and the poor man’s Peel & Seal. Popularized with car audio installations, these products are finding their way into the RV business. High-end audio listeners appreciate the sound improvements these products can offer in passenger cars or trucks where they mainly dampen the redistribution of sound through vibration.
Before continuing with the other side of the van interior, it’s time to put the wall and window above the bed, back together again. Two issues remain: the battery cables and the solar controller cable need to be installed. The other is the decision I have to make, whether to go ahead with batting as insulation or choose a foam product.
Despite some negative comments about the batting material, it has served me well over the years. On the other hand, spray foam would do a better job in filling all the little air pockets in the walls. Some people, however, have mentioned a squeaking noise while driving. Have you any thoughts about it?
The original wall panel is still around. The covering is removed and the plywood base is what we have to work with. I could copy it to a new, one-piece sheet of plywood, but it is in a condition to be reused.
Another day, another window frame. Today I first removed the two remaining window frames. They have a little damage and after their repair, I will paint them like the others.
Insulation has been applied minimally; lots of spaces around the windows and walls are open cavities, like this area under one of the large windows.
For weeks I could not figure out how the ceiling panels were attached to the ceiling. After a lot of prying around, I succeeded in removing one long, narrow side panel, but only after removing the cabin ceiling panel first. It was friction fit and capped by the cabin panel.
At one moment the cabin ceiling panel was just hanging by a thread… Doing the work alone has its advantages, but sometimes an extra hand would come in handy.
I wonder how the interior held it out for 20 years; most of the work I’ve seen sofar is minimal at least. This panel is held up by 3 open clips and 2 screws. In the left rear, you can see the other long, narrow side ceiling panel.